Eventually in just on the subject of every mountain biker’s future, there is a group of custom built wheels waiting to bring your mountain bike alive. The tires on your mountain bicycle have one of the primary influences about how your bicycle rides and lots of riders overlook this extremely important component. It really is amazing just how many riders will springtime for the $250+ back derailleur that has small to no impact while riding on $100 or less tires. If you want to obtain the biggest value for your money, focus on the frame, wheels and suspension.

What a large amount of riders also usually do not realize is a custom built wheelset could be closer to their spending budget than they think. While there are tires that will place you in the $1,000+ range…that isn’t the norm. You could be in the low hundreds aswell and ride aside with a killer group of wheels that may last you over multiple bicycles. We all know, even bike producers spec out poor wheels on the full builds therefore keeping an excellent set of wheels takes care of for a long time to come.


There is a particular reality in mountain biking. There is a large difference between an excellent handmade steering wheel build and a mass machine constructed mountain biking steering wheel. While there are cheaper, ready made tires out there, an excellent built wheelset by an established wheel builder can last you much longer and stay rolling accurate for the life span of the wheel. Even a wheel made with budget parts benefits drastically when it is put together with the right hands. There exists a science/artwork to steering wheel building. I am uncertain why, but that’s just the case. Those that perform it well…do it certainly well. Those that don’t…will keep you with wheels that require to be trued constantly.

Wheel builds will be the one thing I really do not carry out myself on my bicycle. For my steering wheel builds, I keep them in the able hands of a select few: Chad at Crimson Barn Bicycles, Chris at Created to Last Tires and the past due John Kovachi. I’ve several sets individually from Chad which have gotten defeat to hell with no indication of needing a tune up. If you’re going to concentrate on anything, get the proper steering wheel builder and you may save yourself a huge amount of future head aches and you will possess a stiff and dependable set going to the trail with.


The building blocks of your wheels are your hubs. They control the energy transfer in the trunk and have a substantial effect on the stiffness of your front side end. By selecting the right group of hubs for your mountain bicycle wheel build, you have to focus on the stats that matter as organized below. Ideally, you’ll be working with a steering wheel builder on an arranged budget and they’ll offer you some hub choices in your cost range.


Size used to become simple with mountain bicycle hubs but because of the intro of the 142mm rear axle…things certainly are a small different now. Make sure to check your bicycle and be sure you are operating the proper width back hub. The prior industry standard was 135mm but most of the newer bicycles are arriving spec’ed with the brand new 142mm back ends that increases general stiffness.


Not almost all hubs are manufactured equal. Some concentrate on weight while some on sturdiness. A recreational rider, you certainly do not need the lightest hubs in the marketplace. The setups from Chris King, Hope, Market Nine, Hadley, DT Swiss and other manufacturers that’s centered around trail riding will probably be ideal. Do not get focused an excessive amount of on weight and even more on the other specifications that fit your steering wheel build and have a primary romantic relationship on riding like engagement. You don’t want to finish up getting a light arranged that eventually ends up having problems in the future.


For 99.99% of riders, 32 spoke may be the way to go. There are several XC racers that work 28 spoke and there are several DH guys that work 36. For some riders and racers, the typical 32 spoke will likely be perfect. You aren’t likely to save enough excess weight with 28 to create an actual difference and 36 is usually overkill even for some DH guys nowadays. The quality of the individual building your tires is a lot more important than general spoke count.


Engagement is among my most important elements in choosing a hub for mountain bicycles. For all those that don’t find out, engagement may be the amount of factors that the travel engages the shell to obtain power to the floor. Typically, that is specified in factors around a 360 level turn of the steering wheel. For instance, the Chris King back hubs engage the get 72 times in 360 degrees compared to a Wish hub that engages 24 times. This implies that the Chris King hub will engage quicker (much less examples of pedal movement) compared to the Hope.

How come this matter?

In technical parts of trail where you must clutch the pedals to get going, you get capacity to the ground quicker. You also obtain it to the chainline quicker when heading from coasting to pedaling. By reducing this gap, it is possible to be more effective on the trail and it could actually save in really sluggish rocky/rooty situations.

A general guideline…here are how a few of the brands construct: Industry Nine – 120, Chris King – 72, Hadley – 72, Wish – 24, DT Swiss – 24


Mountain bike hubs can be found in a multitude of colours. Match them up with the bicycle or as an accent. When you finish up adding a comparison spoke you really can change the entire look of your trip and make it exclusive.

Another thing to consider with mountain bike hubs is usually proprietary parts. Hubs like the types out of Sector Nine require their right pull aluminum spokes (without the classic versions). In the event that you break a spoke, you ‘must’ have spares readily available and with you to obtain it fixed.


With regards to deciding on the best hubs for your wheel build, you should focus on the stats that matter. I observe a large amount of riders that are looking to compare how very long their steering wheel spins in a bicycle stand as an assessment for how great their hubs are.

The truth…the just time that ever issues is when the bicycle is on the stand and…I don’t find out about you…but where my elements matter is on the trail. Unless there exists a mechanical problem together with your hub, you aren’t going to experience any drag on the trail. Your wheels and chain line have significantly more drag than any present day hub engagement design. Usually do not forgo something similar to better engagement (which will change lives on the trail) and only a hub that freewheels much longer (that will not change lives on the trail).


The second most important facet of a mountain bike wheel build may be the rim. The mountain bicycle rim controls not merely your rolling pounds in mixture with the tire, but it addittionally controls how the get in touch with patch of your tire will be organized on the trail.


The farther you move away from the hub…the more excess weight matters. Perhaps you have ever experienced riding on lighter wheels? It feels as though the bike just really wants to progress quicker right? That is definitely why the total amount between toughness, width and weight offers been so important in mountain bicycle rims lately. There are serious effectiveness gains to be produced with light rims so long as they keep up and so are wide plenty of for the newer, lighter wide mountain bike wheels. You may expect a long lasting, trail prepared rim to weigh in at about 400g for 26″ wheels and 480g for 29ers nowadays. That’s lighter than earlier years while still keeping the same quantity of toughness we are accustomed to seeing.

Also remember, the quality of your wheel builder will drastically effect the sturdiness of the set and how it holds together.


The rim may be the first type of defense following the ground hits the tire. While it might be tempting to find the lightest rim out there to create your bike feel quicker…you could be capturing yourself in the feet by getting set up with a rim that is actually just designed for XC racing. However, you can overdo it and finish up losing performance by obtaining a heavier rim that’s overkill on the toughness side. The main element is telling your steering wheel builder the exact sort of riding you perform regularly and discovering that balance that may make an ideal wheelset for you as well as your riding style.


Rim width has turned into a huge subject over modern times. The reason for that is that mountain bicycle tires are receiving wider at the same fat they utilized to maintain the past. When I 1st started riding, it was not unusual to discover everyone riding 1.8 tires. Now times…you wouldn’t even capture the biggest excess weight weenie XC racer on 1.8 tires. Many trail riders are on big 2.25 to 2.4 rubber to take benefit of an improved trip and more grip because of larger air quantity and get in touch with patch with the trail.

Your rim width directly determines how that get in touch with patch interacts with the bottom. A narrower rim may cause the tire to bubble out more and also have a far more rounded appearance. This means you won’t have nearly as good of contact with the bottom and less grip. It will make your tire even more susceptible to pinch flats as the sidewalls will end up being curving in to the rim.

The larger your rim is…the flatter the tire will take a seat on the trail and the better your current ride will be because of even more cushion and better hold. Of course, wider rims generally equivalent more weight because of increase material, but with rims just like the NoTubes.com Stans Circulation (25.5mm width at 490g on 26″) and the Pacenti TL28 (23mm internal width at 390g for 26″).


It really is harder to discover rims that usually do not acknowledge some type tubeless system nowadays because of the NoTubes.com Stans program. However, you do have to know there are two fundamental types. The tape centered program (NoTubes.com) and the rim bead/tire program just like the Mavic UST.

The tape based systems will be the goo you are accustomed to viewing around the trail and is normally the easiest way to find yourself in tubeless even if it’s messy. A whole lot of non-tubeless wheels will continue to work with that program and the rim and tire weights are significantly less than bead/tire systems like Mavic’s UST set up.


32 spoke will probably be the way to work for 99% of riders. With regards to spoke selection (in case you are not utilizing a hub which has proprietary spokes like Market Nine or some Wish hubs), the choice ought to be pretty simple. Many riders escape by using DT Swiss Comp spokes. The Comp spoke is becoming a business standard for very great reason…it is fairly light and strong. We operate Comps on our wheels because of this.

By seeking to get another thing out of your spokes for a particular reason, get together with your builder and discuss choices with disadvantages/benefits. The other advantage to Comps can be that each shop has them readily available. If you ever come across an issue when you are out of city on a mountain biking trip…it could be fixed easily.


Brass or alloy: That’s your decision to create with regard the nipples that change your spoke tension if you are using traditional spokes. Alloy nipples are somewhat lighter, a bit more costly and can be found in colors. Overall performance is approximately the same when the tires are designed and trued correctly.


My mountain bike wheels are about the just component that goes from bike to bike through the years and an element that we consider to be among the most crucial on the bike. When you get yourself a really well built group of wheels, they’ll last you quite a long time with minimal maintenance. They will provide for a much better riding bike due to better stiffness, weight, performance and strength in fact it is a switch that…once you trip with an excellent set…you will never have the ability to switch back again to cheaper or machine constructed wheels. It creates that big of a notable difference in the manner your bike rides.

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